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A simple guide to skincare actives/acids

A simple guide to skincare actives/acids

Pooja Talera, Founder of Kosa Wellbeing.
Photo: @kosawellbeing (Instagram)

Using actives can help reverse the aging process, fade discoloration, and even reduce the appearance of wrinkles. there are thousands of actives on the market, and it can be hard to know the right one. A chat between Meher Jadhwani, Founder of Dearist and Dr. Pooja Talera, Founder of Kosa Wellbeing, share a simple guide that will help you pick the best active for your skin type.

Acids in cosmeceuticals preparations:

AHA - strong fruit acids penetrate your skin and help regenerate and fight fine lines and pigmentations.⁠

BHA - great for acne-prone skin and helps fight blackheads and active acne without scarring or damaging the skin. These are quite potent acids, penetrate deeper than AHAs and should not be applied if not needed.⁠

PHA - newest in the market. Work like AHAs but are more gentle.⁠

Other acids that are good exfoliants in a medical setting:⁠

Phenol Acid - great for exfoliation, but strong and can scar.⁠

Carboxylic Acid - great for deep acne scars but is super strong and needs to be administered with care.⁠

Not all acids exfoliate, below are a few that have other properties:

Hyaluronic Acid - super for hydration and is ideal for aging skin as it softens and plumps the skin.⁠

Azalea Acid - works against acne and pigmentation.⁠

Retinoic Acid - treats acne and photo-aging but is quite harsh, so retinol is recommended.⁠

Kojic Acid - works on pigmentation.⁠

These are the most common in skincare formulations:⁠

Salicylic Acid - helps reduce discoloration and improves the tone of your skin; however, pregnant or breastfeeding should steer clear of this acid. It should also only be used at night when cell turnover occurs.⁠

Glycolic and Lactic Acids - safest to use because of their versatile properties.⁠


Disclaimer: these are general guidelines not based on a personal consultation, always speak to your health care professional/nutritionist for specific issues.